You might ask how can you go from 6.0L V12 to a 2.3L dull station wagon? Good question! This car will be a workhorse car for all year use, hauling trailers and transporting stuff.
It’s a bit scruffy looking when you get up close and have the impression of standing outside too long without a decent polish.
Lets start with the pros:
It’s a Sportline version – Oh yes Sport with 132 HP
It has ADS (automatic differential lock), so usable in the Norwegian winter
Mechanically the car runs fine, engine and breaks etc.
No significant rust to speak of
The black metallic color is quite nice and more easy to sell than for example green
No electric windows, so less things to break
AC seems to work OK
It has an electric sunroof that can be opened and closed
Comes with a DAB radio – FM is obsolete in Norway
It is face lift 1 – looks better than the 85 original and does not have the rust paint problems of face lift 2
And then to the negatives:
No electric windows – I need to please my luxurious ego
The sunroof tilting function is not really working at the moment – not the end of the world
There is a leak from the hose of the rear window washer reservoir – needs to be fixed
The cables and vacuum hose of the right front door have been cut
The driver seat is quite worn and needs a new sitting pad
Door check straps needs to be changed
Switch for the rear wiper needs to be replaced
Front plastic bumper has cracks – needs replacement
Fabric interior, where is the luxury?
Ugly unoriginal rims – Needs to be changed for sure. Good thing I have some original w126 rims that can be bolter straight on
Worn winter tires
The key for the door and ignition are different
So is this a lemon car? Not really, but not a show car either. It has some issues and the age shows. The price also reflected that. The mileage is not low either at above 350.000 km, so at least its driven in properly.
Many of will might ask how I can drive 3 cars simultaneously around. Well obviously I don’t. Mostly my father will use it as his daily driver. I can though see some nice articles come out of it. And having the opportunity to drive a classic w124 can be fun!
This is just a quick teaser. A full review will be posted at the end of the summer! So stay tuned.
Why is the R129 SLs so cheap these days and the R107 SL so expensive in comparison? The R107 has already become a true classic since it started production back in 1971. The oldest R129s are already passing 25 years and becoming old. But they are ridiculously cheap compared to what you get. This is a common trait among luxury sedans aged between 20-30 years old before the prices start to go up again, but the SL is supposed to be a sports car and it is a convertible. These types of cars normally have quite higher prices than the aging luxury sedans.
The funny thing is that you can get a V12 SL600 fully equipped for just around 15k Stirling pounds. That’s crazy for a car that nearly cost 100K£ new back in the olden days, especially considering the inflated currency and the value of money back. Why would you even consider buying new car when you can get this luxury three pointed star of rolling ludicrousness for absolutely less than a single cruise holiday to the Caribbean? Also if you want one R129 in red, they are the most expensive ones, not many came in red and for some reason they are highly valued.
The R129 SLs are also reliable cars where the bigger engines have super strong dual overhead cam axles. Buy it, drive it and don’t bother opening the hood in between services. The only major thing you need to take care of here is the soft top that will deteriorate quicker than the rest of the car. But you probably have a garage right? You can even get them with a hard top which can be used for other seasons than the summer, perfect for northern Europe. Although my personal opinion is that you should avoid driving around in a convertible with the hard top on, what if the sun comes out!?!?
The styling has become timeless yet still feels modern even though it’s a 30 year old design. I have never heard anyone said that the R129 SL looks bad, and in the end that’s what matters right? To drive around in a cool car is first priority. Power, speed, comfort and reliability usually comes second when having a 2-seated mostly unpractical convertible. If you get the R129 you will get all of these except the practicality. Although you will probably fit your unused golf clubs while impressing your business friends that most likely are not good at gold either. (I would rather hang my muddy mountain bike off the back, throw in my diving gear in the boot along with the boots and back pack for hiking, but that’s just me)
So what are you all waiting for? Get out there and buy a cool R129 and drive it!
To be inspired check out these videos about the R129 from Harry’s garage and The Smoking Tire respectively:
Reading Time: 1minuteThis video I just made for testing camera equipment, camera placement and angles, the noise quality etc. Watch with this in mind and laugh at the ridiculous intro/outro and some weird cutting. Comment on Youtube if you want to give constructive feedback.
I used the GoPro Hero4 and built in mic. Some lessons were definitely learned from this recording session:
The gopro mic is not good enough. Use of external mic and good placement is necessary. Inside car is good for louder cars, but for the S600 the mic has to be placed next to the exhaust.
Shooting inside back of car is difficult when it is very bright outside.
Wind noise needs to be dealt with, external mic inside car or wind muff.
More angles and faster cutting is needed.
Introduction to car and it quirks and voice over is necessary for viewers to enjoy videos. This means I have to pull out my English skils and hopefully not so much the Norwegian accent.
Wide angle shots not necessary for every angle. I have a camera for this purpose too.
Reading Time: 4minutesAs an example I will use this rotten 280SE that has not been driven for a long time. It has been standing outside, somewhat half of it under a roof next to a barn for 3 years. So how do you solve the mystery of starting a car that has been sitting for so long? This method applies for all Mercedes and all other gasoline cars in general.
I will also touch upon the subject of what you have to do after you get the car started in order to make it drivable.
This list is the bare minimum preparations to get the car starting. To get it to a drivable condition you will need to do much more stuff. I dive into that at the bottom.
Get a new battery
Get some fresh fuel
Get some new spark plugs
New fuel filter and fuel tank filter
Check condition of ignition system to determine if you need to get new parts like distributor cap and spark plug wires.
New air filter
Remove old battery. The old battery is quickly dead if not been used for a while. Just throw out the old one at the same place where you buy new one, they will recycle it for you. Don’t cry over the old battery, maybe this time you will take better care of the newer one?
Empty the tank from the old fuel since this fuel is pretty much useless. If the car has been sitting for more than a few years then just change the fuel filter as well. There might be the case where you cant raise the car to get under it to drain the fuel and change the fuel tank filter as was the case with this particucular case. Then you have to drain the tank by sucking out the old fuel from the tank filler hole. It is easily done by “stealing fuel trick” (just suck on a hose hopefully not with your mouth, just use a vacuum pump instead). It wont get your filter clean, but often it is not completely clogged in a gasoline car and you can get the car running by pouring some new fuel in.
Remove the old spark plugs, they probably are so dirty they won’t give a proper spark.
Pour a little oil into the cylinders from an oil can to make better compression upon startup, the oil will make a temporary seal between the compression rings.
Put in new the spark plugs, gapped to the right specification.
Go over the ignition system again if you didn’t get new parts, like removing obvious corrosion inside the distributor cap. Check for cracks and corrosion on the spark plug wires. Remove all traces of corrosion since it might hinder current to the spark plugs.
Check the engine oil level, fill up if low. Low level might indicate oil leakage and dried up gaskets.
Check radiator coolant level, this has probably evaporated quite a bit and you have to fill up with new coolant.
Throw out the old air filter. Simply remove the air filter housing at initial start up to get the maximum amount of air into the combustion chamber. Don’t forget to put in the new air filter after startup to avoid dirt getting into the engine.
Crank the engine first by hand from the crank pulley, go in clockwise direction when looking from the front of the car over the engine. The engine should be able to turn without too much force. If not you might have a big problem! Then the only chance you have is that the engine will turn with the starter motor.
Check for blown fuses, easy fix and often overlooked.
Put in the new battery and check that the battery pole clamps are cleaned from corrosion. Put them on tight.
Fill the car up with some new fuel, but just a little since you don’t want to waste fuel id you can’t get it started.
Cross your fingers and try to start the car. You know that a good Mercedes should always start unless….
Hopefully you got your car starting, congratulations and pat on the shoulder! Then now what?
Some even have the trouble of even moving the car after starting it, can the wheels turn or are the brakes completely seized?
Well the job is not done just because you only got started. Now the big job is starting. The absolute most important thing is changing all the fluids and filters! The fluids change property when being stored for a long time and does not have the right cooling and lubricating properties anymore. That means changing the engine oil, coolant, transmission oil, servo oil, brake fluid and differential fluid.
The brake disks are probably rusted beyond recognition and has to be replaced along with the brake pads and pad sensors.
Engine valves needs adjusting if this is not done automatically if you want peak power and better fuel economy.
Serpentine belts needs replacement since they probably are slipping and are cracked.
Change the tires, they probably have cracks in them and are not round at all after sitting this long.
Check the brushes on the generator, they probably need replacing.
Consider cleaning or replacing the injectors since they probably have bad spray patterns making poorer performance and again lower fuel economy.
Getting the car started is just a small part of the job, making it drivable is a much more tedious job that might take you . Leaving a car sitting for long periods of time is not good for the car or you. It leaves you a lot of work and more things than you think needs replacement after just a few years. The engine does not like it and it is quite tedious to get rid of all the old fuel in the tank and filters that makes life miserable. Not even to begin mentioning old dried up gaskets.
I have my car parked for around 5 months of the year during the winter, and I do not recommend leaving the car for much more than that. I make sure I do the necessary preparations before parking, like removing the battery to inside a warm place and recharging it before use again. Trying to have as little fuel as possible in the tank when parking. Blowing up the tires to around maximum pressure. Parking the car without touching the brakes and not using the parking brake to prevent seizure. Then covering the car in a car blanket to protect the paint. The brake rotors will unavoidably get a thin rust layer, but thin enough it will all go away rapidly after a going hard on the brakes a few times. Leaving the car for more than one + year will make the rotors so rusty that they have to be replaced. You have been warned.