This video I just made for testing camera equipment, camera placement and angles, the noise quality etc. Watch with this in mind and laugh at the ridiculous intro/outro and some weird cutting. Comment on Youtube if you want to give constructive feedback.
I used the GoPro Hero4 and built in mic. Some lessons were definitely learned from this recording session:
The gopro mic is not good enough. Use of external mic and good placement is necessary. Inside car is good for louder cars, but for the S600 the mic has to be placed next to the exhaust.
Shooting inside back of car is difficult when it is very bright outside.
Wind noise needs to be dealt with, external mic inside car or wind muff.
More angles and faster cutting is needed.
Introduction to car and it quirks and voice over is necessary for viewers to enjoy videos. This means I have to pull out my English skils and hopefully not so much the Norwegian accent.
Wide angle shots not necessary for every angle. I have a camera for this purpose too.
Before the summer I acquired a 1996 w140 S600 (Japan spec) as an addition to my old w123 280CE, hence the updated site main picture as of July 2017. It is actually the same car I did the review on last year and the offer was simply too good to refuse. The car is an extremely good find with under 70.000km original km in it’s 20 years lifespan.
The car collection is now larger than 1! My plans with this car is to keep it completely original and use it mainly for long road trips with extreme comfort, silence and unlimited v12 power if you need it. I also hope the value for this flagship will increase significantly since the 600 version is rarer than most production vehicles and the value is now at the lowest it can be.
I will be posting maintenance DIYs where possible with this car, which are extremely rare by the way! And I will be looking into doing car related videos, starting with filming the S600 and then the 280CE. I did some camera tests now in the summer, which I will post almost immediately under the Videos section. I am though planning to making better videos with use of external mic for excellent sound quality which so many car videos lack except high end production.
When your car steering starts to feel floaty and maybe the car is starting to drift to one side so you constantly have to correct when going down a straight road, consider changing the steering linkage components and do a wheel alignment.
I will describe how you replace the tie rods, the center drag link and the steering damper only. I will not describe how to do a wheel alignment, because professional wheel alignment equipment is needed.
Changing the idler arm bushing is also possible if you experience a knocking sound going over bumps, but this procedure will be described later in a separate article.
Get the parts needed for this job, they are quite cheap since they are normal wear items on a car. Parts you should get:
Right and left side tie rods
Center drag link
Idler arm bushing (job not described in this article)
You will need a special tool for removing the tie rod ends, this can be picked up quite cheap. Either a tie rod fork or a tie rod press tool will do, the latter will not render the tie rod bushing seal useless, but if you are only changing the parts then this does not matter. Additionally you will need a hammer, a torque wrench, some hex tools and some spanners.
Start by raising the front of the car on to jack stands, make sure you block the rear wheels. You will have to be able to remove the front wheels to gain access to the tie rods and also be able to turn the wheels.
Because you are working around the brake rotor, it is important that you wear a dust mask and get a bucket of soapy water and start cleaning the brake rotor and the area around to get rid of all the harmful brake dust before you do any other further work. Think of your health!
When you have cleaned the brake dust, turn the steering wheel all the way left if you are working on the right side, and vica versa.
Get a small pick and clean road grime from the top of the tie rod so you can get a hex tool inserted in to the top. You will loose the bolt with a spanner, but because the whole tie rod end will rotate you have to counter it with the hex tool. When he bolt is off you will notice the tie rod is still extremely stuck. Hit the side hard a couple of times with a hammer to knock the rusted component loose, this might help to loosen it. Insert the tie rod press remove tool and start tightening until the tie rod pops off, this can sometimes be violent. Be careful and don’t lie under it when this happens, because it can happen quite suddenly and the tool and parts might fall on top of you, ouch!
You have to repeat the process twice on each tie rod for both of the car’s sides.
When you have gotten both off, measure the length by counting the turns the tie rod end can rotate before it comes off, it is important that this is exactly the same for the new tie rod. The new and old tie rod should have exactly the same end so your car will have the same handling properties, so it will not be too much “toe in” or “toe out”. The workshop will do the last alignment with reference to the manufacturer specifications after you take the car there. Tighten the tie rod adjustment screw so it will not rotate when the lengths are right.
Time to take the steering damper off. This is the easiest procedure, it is held in place with two bolts only.
One end is attached to the frame of the car while the other one is attached to the center drag link.
Now it is time to get the center drag link off, the procedure is the same here as with the tie rods. Except you don’t have to adjust anything.
The fitting is pretty much straight forward, but remember to use the right torque settings for the tie rod mounting nuts. You should tighten them down only to 41Nm, the tie rods will be stuck in the steering arm and the nuts have plastic inserts in them. Remember throw out the old tie rod ends nuts since thee plastic self tightening mechanism is word. The new tie rods and drag link comes with new nuts and be sure to use these. Loosing control of the car because of some old nuts would be as stupid as driving off a cliff.
Safety warning: You absolutely have to take the car to a workshop where they will do a new wheel alignment. This must always be done right after changing the lower suspension parts!
Ever felt that the engine is not making as much power as it used to? And that the fuel economy has been slowly decreasing? The first thing you should check is the condition of your injectors. Unless you have a pressure tester for the injectors, you would have to guess out from the age of the injectors. If they are more than 10 years old I would suggest to change them, that said if the injectors are relatively cheap since they vary a lot in price between the models. They are still relatively cheap for the M110 engine. E.g. If you have the rarer M100 engine, it will cost you nearly a new house to buy new injectors!
I will describe how you change the injectors with new ones. Refurbishing the old ones is a bit more cumbersome and it needs a pressure tester which you can clean them with and test for release pressure and spray pattern.
Changing the fuel injectors is not difficult and you don’t need much preparation except acquiring new injectors, gaskets and o-rings. There are two gaskets per injector you will have to change or you will end up leaking fuel which is expensive. You can change the injectors easily in an afternoon. I also recommend to change the fuel filter at the same time to not clog up your new injectors.
Start with opening your hood and disconnecting the battery. Sparks can make explosions from gasoline vapor when you are working with the fuel system, and we don’t want that to happen.
Remove the air filter housing to get access to the fuel delivery system.
The four front injectors you can now access without removing more stuff, but to gain access for the last two, you have to remove throttle linkages, fuel hard lines and a fuel regulator. We’ll come to that later.
Two and two injectors are held in place by a single metal plate, to remove the metal plate loosen the injector hard lines first. The injector hard lines should not sit on very hard unless they corroded over time or they have been over tightened. Use two spanners, one 14mm to loose the line nut and one 12mm on the injector itself to to keep it from rotating.
When two hard lines are loosened you can bend them a little to the side to get more access and then remove the injector hold-down plate.
After the plate is removed you can pull out the injectors with you fingers, they sit loose in there. The injector housing will be left, This plastic housing you can just pull out straight too, but be warned, do not use excessive force and pull only the housing straight out with you fingers, don’t use tools or you might damage it. It most likely have become quite brittle by heat over the years. If they are in such a bad condition they are cracked, you have to replace them.
Most likely some of the injector housing gaskets do not come out with the housing, but is still sitting in the injector hole, use a small flat screwdriver and pry it carefully out.
After removing the first four injectors, the two back injectors are left, now the big job starts. See in the picture below that these things blocks access to the fuel injectors.
Start with removing the throttle linkage. Remove the pin and the c-clip along the ball joint. I use a wide flat screwdriver to pry the ball joints off. Remove some more linkages and then you are ready to remove the regulator.
Warning: Get a small collecting can of some sorts and tilt it towards the injector line shown in the picture below. Loosen it and fuel with shoot out with high pressure. Wait until the fuel stops flowing, then loosen the second fuel line connected to the regulator.
Also loosen the vacuum lines before removing the fuel regulator, it is fastened to a bracket with two small bolts.
Now you should have clear access to the last two injectors.
Now is the time to inspect the old injectors and look at those old brittle gaskets. It is a reason why your car was using excessive fuel…
My old gaskets were super hard, especially the round outer ones. No wonder why there was a lot of dirt around the injector area by the engine, they have probably been leaking a while. This job should have been done years ago. I didn’t notice it when the engine performance still was very good, but obviously not optimal when looking at this leaking issue. The old injectors I don’t even bother testing, I will just throw the old ones and put in new ones.
This is how you should assemble the injector with the gaskets:
Pop on the big rubber gasket on the injector itself.
Pop on the little rubber ring on the injector plastic holder.
Pop the injector holder into the engine block until you hear and feel a nice pop.
Slide all the injectors into the holders. Put the hold-down plates over them and tighten.
The injectors will now have a good seal and no fuel will leak. It is also a good idea to clean up the area around the injector holes in the engine before assembly. Also try to be super clean with the new injectors, keeping the plastic cups on as long as possible before fitting them.
No you also have the perfect opportunity to lubricate all the throttle linkages, such as the pivot points and ball joints, I know they have been neglected for years and we are all guilty as charged. However now is the perfect opportunity for redemption. Remove all the linkages and pivot plates, clean them and apply new synthetic grease that will last a while and hold up to water and heat from the engine.
When everything is bolted back together, there is no such thing as dreadful bleeding like in a diesel. Just crank the engine over a few times and the engine should start, it will run rough for a little while until the pressure have settled, and you might experience hard start the first couple of times before the first drive. This is the time when you realize if the electric fuel pump needs replacement or not, mine is some years old and still going strong, although it have been replaced a couple of times the last 15 years.