The rubber parts, essential to Mercedes comfort and also can be a serious threat of safety when they break. Of course I am changing them now the car is in a hundred pieces, much easier!
The Front flex disk of the drive-shaft connected to the transmission is of a special kind and different of the back one. It is complex where each mount is in a softer rubber than the rest of the disk. I actually broke the old one when I was taking off the drive-shaft since it was stuck. This part was very expensive for its size and was hard to find in other shops than a Mercedes dealer, but I managed to find one. A secret is that I always order parts from the US, saves me tons of money. The front flex disk was around 130$ while the simpler rear flex disk was only around 40$. The other rubber mounts was not expensive compared. I am also planning to replace the differential rubber hanger at some point too, but I forgot to order the part last time.
To get the old bearing off the drive-shaft I needed to use a bearing puller, a tool which I have only used for this job, stupid special tools…, but it prevents you for fucking up your drive-shaft column. To drive the new bearing on I used a metal tube which has the same diameter as the inner ring and tapped it carefully on. The car will run smooth now with much less vibration. The old center rubber mount was very cracked and it was a good time to replace it.
Restoring sub frames might be the next Transformer movie
After removing the whole rear sub frame assembly and all it’s components, they needed some love. Under is an example of all the parts (excluding drive shafts) of the sub frame. Have you never worked with these parts you might not have seen it fully before.
I had to remove some surface rust and then repaint all of the parts. It took a while!
Of course there will be new rubber mounts for the sub frame, both front at the mounting plates and at the differential hanger.
Also the subframe needed a good clean up of surface rust, I used a power tool (angle grinder) with a very stiff wire brush to get off the surface rust and old paint.
After an hour or so with the power tool:
My hand were smoking due to the heat and hard vibrations when using the power tool, they were sore for a while after as well, tiring.
How to get the 280CE approved for the road? Change the rear trailing arm since it is rusted. Not allowed to weld this critical part. So it is obviously number one priority. One can say that Christmas this year came early. I have been searching for a good used one as this for a long time and this particular one I got quite cheap compared to a new one! It even came with a good wheel bearing and the handbrake shoes with the cable. New trailing arms for the W123 from a Mercedes dealer can cost up to 3000$ and I was not up for using this amount of money when there are alternatives.
It weird that this one rusted and the other one is completely fine, also it rusted on a smooth curve and not on a edge.
Like new this one! I painted it and changed the rubber bushings as well, however needed a workshop to put the new bushings on. I don’t have a hydraulic press in my basic workshop.
Why get new ones when you can use 30hours trying to fix the old ones?!?!
I wanted to weld the front fenders rather than replacing them, even though I have two replacement fenders. Why is that?
Stubborned idiot like myself
Keeping the car more original
No need for respraying fenders since the other ones are blue
Replacement fenders have hole for antenna, and my antenna is in the trunk
So I got on with that, but I might replace them in the future if I’m not satisfied with the result.
So on to the cutting, and trying to recreate the corner, was quite painfully difficult actually.
So then I welded and this was the result:
It looks better than it was, turned out when i fit it on the car I needed to do a massive job with the filler, but after the result was quite nice. Good enough for now, might change the fenders in the future when doing a complete respray though, but then I will get completely new ones without old paint and stupid holes for antennas.